Third place at the Danish Sommelier Championship, ASI bootcamp experience, and a clear philosophy on service. Michael Rønne Sørensen shares his approach to wine competition and the long game of becoming a better sommelier.

Raised by the ocean, shaped by freedom — and how that made the Swartland a great wine region.

Clos du Caillou is known for its sandy soils, organic farming and quiet precision. In Copenhagen, just before the HORECA tasting, I meet Marilou Vacheron to speak about heritage, climate adaptation and what it means when wine is not just work, but life.

Chris Alheit doesn't seek attention, doesn't do social media, and won't sell a wine he isn't fully confident in. He just happens to make some of the most coveted Chenin Blancs on the planet.

Champagne J.M. Goulard is a grower estate in the Massif de Saint Thierry with around 60 percent Meunier planted on sand dominant soils. Since the third generation took over, the estate has moved to organic farming and refined its cellar approach with parcel separation, restrained oak use and detailed lees ageing. 

The Rheingau is Riesling country. Anyone who has spent time in this stretch of hills along the Rhine knows it — the steep south-facing slopes, the slate and quartzite soils, the proud producers who have spent centuries coaxing elegance from a single grape. So when I sat down with Verena Schöttle, the winemaker behind Chat Sauvage, a small estate producing nothing but Pinot Noir and Chardonnay in the heart of this landscape, I came with a question I had been sitting on for a while: what does it actually take to do something different here, and mean it? 

I will admit it upfront: I am a devoted fan of Taupenot-Merme wines. So when I found myself sitting across from Romain Taupenot a grey morning in Copenhagen, I had to remind myself to ask questions rather than simply nod along. It turned out not to be a problem. Within the first ten minutes it became clear that Romain does not give short answers. Not because he is evasive, but because the subject does not allow for it. Burgundy, for him, is not a product. It is a living thing, and he treats it accordingly.

In many restaurants today, sommeliers are beginning to develop non-alcoholic pairings alongside traditional wine pairings. Producers are experimenting with fermentation, tea, botanicals and new blending techniques. Yet the category itself is still developing, and the language around it remains unclear. 

How do you go from being a young sommelier in Jutland to suddenly standing on an international stage surrounded by some of the world’s most skilled professionals? For Toke Fiedler Terkilldsen, 23, sommelier and waiter at Restaurant AOC and No.2, it began with curiosity and with saying yes when the opportunity arose, even before he felt “fully ready”.

We begin by speaking about the weather. Francois de Nicolay, who today runs Domaine Chandon de Briailles together with his sister Claude de Nicolay, describes an unstable season marked by rain, wind, and fluctuating temperatures. When I mention that Denmark is experiencing one of the coldest winters in years.

I met Tim Mondavi at Hotel d’Angleterre in Copenhagen. Continuum was the focus of our meeting, but Tim’s story covers decades of work and many different projects. Much of his background is already well documented, and many of the obvious questions have been asked before. I was more interested in how his experiences connect, and how choices made years apart can lead to one clear direction.

Marlene Lund Larsen has worked in the restaurant industry for more than sixteen years and is trained through a traditional waiter apprenticeship. Her career includes positions at several highly regarded Danish restaurants, including Ti Trin Ned, where she worked as Assistant Restaurant Manager and Head Sommelier, and Falsled Kro, where she further developed her experience in fine dining service and wine programs.

When I asked Gin Isabel where it all began, she did not talk about a special bottle. She talked about work.

“I started as a dishwasher. It is hard, but it teaches you so many things. The kitchen porter is the heart of the restaurant. I was 14 years old.”

I met Pierre-Jules Peyrat at No. 2 about an hour before he was scheduled to hold a masterclass, while the room was still settling into a pre-tasting state. He arrived smiling, talking, and immediately present. Within a few minutes, it became clear that Champagne is not simply something he works with.

Ahead of this year’s summit in Copenhagen, I spoke with Jan Eggers, Head of Organisation for the Cool Climate Wine Summit. I was unfortunately busy and unable to attend the summit last year, but I am very much looking forward to experiencing the event this year.

Château de Verreux lies in Arbois, in eastern France’s Jura region, surrounded by vineyards and ancient marine fossils.The estate dates back to the 18th century and is officially listed as a protected historical monument.

It was a rainy morning in Frederiksberg. I met Roberto di Filippo and his daughter Bianca in the Juuls shop, just before opening. Anders Regout from Juuls Engros had set up the interview for me. We went down to the basement to sit down, talk and taste. Roberto showed me his hands, smiled, and said, “You can tell I am used to working in the fields.” He had that calm look I often see in growers who spend their days outside.

Denmark has a long tradition with port, and we are the 8th largest market in the world when it comes to buying port wine. What stands out is that most of the port sold here are premium, and the average bottle price is among the highest.

For many years it has lived in a very specific setting: Christmas, cheese and the end of a long meal. I grew up with that image, even though we do not drink as much port in Sweden as people do here.

Over the past weeks, I have spoken with five of our sponsors: L'Esprit du Vin, Vinmonopolet, Laudrup Vin & Gastronomi, Philipson Wine and Hans Just, about how the new packaging legislation is affecting their daily work. I also spoke with Tim Vollerslev, Vice President of the Danish Sommelier Association, about what these changes may mean for restaurants and for the broader wine industry in Denmark.

The Brunel family has been present in the Châteauneuf-du-Pape region for generations. In 1954 Lucien Brunel, Fabrice’s grandfather, gave the domaine the name Les Cailloux, “the pebbles,” a reference to the round stones that shape the soils of the appellation.