Galician Wine: Tradition, Identity & a Taste of the Future
Serving Monterrei at Trio in Copenhagen.
Galicia, in Spain’s green northwest, is a wine region with deep roots in history. Vineyards grow on steep slopes and around old monasteries, while a new generation of winemakers is bringing fresh ideas. In this interview, Antonio Lombardía, President of ACRUAGA, and Marta Villén, Promotion Officer for Ribeira Sacra DO, talk about the past and future of Galician wine.
Galicia Wines & Aguardientes Walkaround Tasting at Trio in Copenhagen.
In June, I had the pleasure of attending the Galicia Wines & Aguardientes Walkaround Tasting at Trio in Copenhagen, hosted by ACRUAGA and our sponsor UEC.
It was a unique opportunity to explore and enjoy over 100 wines and grape spirits (orujo) from Galicia’s six prestigious Appellations of Origin.
I was in a bit of a time pressure so I did not have time to do an interview at the day, but I recently spoke over Zoom with Antonio Lombardía, president of ACRUAGA, and Marta Villén, promotion officer for the Ribeira Sacra DO, to learn more about Galician wines, their traditions, and their future.
Tradition and Landscape
“Here in Ribeira Sacra, like in all of Galicia, we use only native grape varieties,” Marta told me. “That’s one of the reasons our wines are so special.” Grapes like Mencía, Godello, Treixadura, Brancellao, and Merenzao have been grown here for centuries.
Galicia’s vineyards are often small and owned by families. These little plots, called minifundios, are passed down through generations. While this makes wine production more complicated, it also helps keep old traditions alive. “It’s part of our identity,” Marta said. “You can walk through a vineyard and see clearly where one family’s land ends and the next begins.”
“The landscape also plays a big role,” she continued. “In Ribeira Sacra, the vineyards are planted on very steep slopes along the Miño and Sil rivers. It’s very hard work everything has to be done by hand.”
Ribeira Sacra. Photo: ribeirasacra.org
Antonio agreed: “En algunos sitios, hay que ir en barca para llegar a la viña. O llevar las uvas a la espalda.” (In some places, you have to take a boat to get to the vineyard. Or carry the grapes on your back.)
He added, “Machines don’t work here. That’s the reality. It’s not just romantic language,it’s the way it is for the people working the land every day.”
“The terraces were built centuries ago, and today’s winemakers are still working those same stones. It’s incredible, and it gives the wine its soul.”
“People were surprised by the reds especially they didn’t expect such freshness and elegance.”
Antonio also described how this historic division of land still shapes the vineyard landscape: “Cuando el abuelo se moría, repartía la viña entre los hijos. Por eso hoy tenemos tantas pequeñas parcelas.” (When the grandfather died, he divided the vineyard between his sons. That’s why we have so many small parcels today.)
From Hard Times to New Beginnings
Wine has been made in Galicia since Roman times and continued thanks to monasteries. “Wine was safer to drink than water,” Antonio said. “So monks cultivated vines, and many of our vineyards still grow around ancient monasteries.”
But in the 1800s, things changed. Disease (like phylloxera) and the selling of church lands led many vineyards to be abandoned. “It wasn’t until the Ribeira Sacra DO was created in 1996 that we began to rebuild seriously,” he said. “Before that, most wine was made for personal use. The DO gave us structure, quality standards, and a future.”
Marta added, “With the DO, we also started recovering forgotten varieties like Brancellao and Merenzao. These grapes almost disappeared. But now they are coming back, and they help show the full identity of the region.”
Ribeiro. Photo: www.ribeiro.wine
Working Together: What Is ACRUAGA?
ACRUAGA is an organization that brings together all of Galicia’s wine regions. It was created just before the pandemic and includes:
Rías Baixas – Located along the Atlantic coast, this DO is known worldwide for its fresh and aromatic Albariño wines. The climate is cool and humid, and vineyards are often trained on high pergolas to reduce disease pressure.
Ribeira Sacra – Situated inland along the dramatic river canyons of the Miño and Sil, Ribeira Sacra specializes in Mencía and Godello. The vineyards are steep and terraced, and most work is done by hand.
Ribeiro – One of the oldest wine regions in Galicia, Ribeiro is known for its blends of native white varieties like Treixadura, Torrontés, and Loureira. The wines are often crisp, with good acidity, and well-suited to seafood.
Valdeorras – A land of slate soils and continental influences, Valdeorras produces some of Spain’s finest Godello and Mencía wines. The whites are structured and mineral, and the reds have great balance.
Monterrei – A small but growing DO near the Portuguese border, Monterrei is known for expressive Mencía and the white variety Doña Blanca. The wines are gaining attention for their quality and character.
Galician Spirits (IGP) – This geographical indication covers traditional spirits like Orujo and licor café, made from grape pomace or infused with coffee and herbs. These play an important cultural role in Galician life.
“The terraces were built centuries ago, and today’s winemakers are still working those same stones. It’s incredible, and it gives the wine its soul.”
“We created ACRUAGA to show the world the true depth of Galicia’s wine culture,” Antonio explained. “This region is home to a wide range of native grape varieties and diverse soils. We now host tastings in cities like Copenhagen, London, and Amsterdam to share the full story of Galician wine.”
Referring to the recent walkaround tasting at Trio in Copenhagen, Marta added, “These events also help small producers. Many of them don’t have the resources to promote themselves abroad, but together we can tell the story of Galician wine more powerfully.”
New Ideas from a New Generation
A new generation of winemakers is shaping the future of Galician wine with fresh ideas rooted in respect for tradition.
“Many want to make natural, biodynamic, or low-alcohol wines,” Marta explained. “They still honor what came before, but they want to express themselves in new ways. Some are also pushing for more flexibility in the wine regulations.”
Antonio added, “We’re seeing young people return to take over their family vineyards, but they’re experimenting too. That’s a good thing, it shows the region is alive and evolving.”
“There’s a lot of passion,” Marta continued. “They want to stay connected to the land, but also create something modern. You now see wines that are unmistakably Galician, but with a fresher, more personal touch.”
Monterrei, https://acruaga.gal/d-o-monterrei/
“We’re seeing young people return to take over their family vineyards, but they’re experimenting too. That’s a good thing, it shows the region is alive and evolving”
Looking Outward
Galician winemakers are focusing more on exports. “Nordic countries are curious and open to trying new wines,” Antonio said. “They like lighter styles, which is what we produce.” Right now, about 30% of Rías Baixas wines are sold abroad, and that number is growing.
“La acogida en Dinamarca fue muy buena,” Antonio said. (The reception in Denmark was very good.) “People were surprised by the reds especially they didn’t expect such freshness and elegance.”
The region is also applying to become a UNESCO World Heritage Site. “Viticulture has brought life back to the area,” Marta said. “What was once forgotten is now something people are proud of. We want to protect that.”
Antonio added, “A few decades ago, some of these vineyards were being abandoned. Now, because of the effort of the winegrowers, the area is alive again. The recognition we’re getting is thanks to them. If we’re named a UNESCO site, it will help preserve everything, the land, the traditions, the culture.”
He continued, “It’s about more than wine. It’s about protecting a way of life, a landscape that has shaped generations. The terraces, the rivers, the slopes they are part of who we are.”
In some places, you have to take a boat to get to the vineyard. Or carry the grapes on your back.
A Sustainable Future
Antonio summed it up simply: “Nosotros no tenemos grandes superficies, pero sí tenemos calidad, tradición y diversidad.” (We don’t have large areas, but we do have quality, tradition, and diversity.)
Marta added, “The hard work of the people who farm here is what keeps the landscape and culture alive. It’s not just wine, it’s heritage.”
She continued, “We’ve been very focused on local markets, but now it’s time to open up. With the authenticity we have, I believe Galicia will become one of the most respected wine regions in Europe.”
Galicia’s wines come from a deep history and a very special landscape. And today, with both tradition and innovation, they are ready to be shared with the world.
