A cool climate and a terroir of clay and limestone are a rare combination that exists few places in the world. Prince Edward County on the north shore of Lake Ontario has it. This may be why a Canadian wine, made by a winemaker who has worked in Oregon, South Africa, New Zealand and California, brings to mind only one place: Burgundy.

I find it interesting when people go against what seems impossible. Nova Scotia, on Canada’s Atlantic coast, is one of those places. It lies far north, shaped by the sea and by a community of growers determined to turn a cool, windy climate into an advantage.