Raúl Pérez: The Wizard of Bierzo Came to Aarhus
Raúl Pérez. Photo: Thomas Steinthal
Raúl Pérez. The name itself speaks of strength and refinement, and it was with some anticipation that I turned onto Kalkværksvej in Sydhavnen earlier in the day and parked my cargo bike in this completely renovated part of Aarhus.
Raúl Pérez. Photo: Thomas Steinthal
Today's tasting with the Spanish wizard took place in the brand new premises that Restaurant SyvNi13 moved into just a month ago, and when I step into Denmark's tallest wooden building and press the button for the 19th floor in the shiny elevator, I feel more than ready for a great wine adventure.
In my many years in the wine world, I have of course come across the name Raúl Pérez many times before, and I have also tasted some of his wines, heard stories about even more and even a decade ago, on a wine tour with Vincaféen to Spain, stalked him to a godforsaken building in a godforsaken northern Spanish village and rang the doorbell for the name Raúl Pérez. Without luck though, which was probably just the same.
Well, back on track. I step out onto the 19th floor, hang my jacket in the wardrobe and head into the restaurant's beautiful room, where I am met by an impressive and panoramic view of nothing less than the whole of Aarhus. Right from the megalomaniac buildings of Sydhavnen, over the wealthy and also brand new district of Aarhus Ø to the impressive bay, where the azure sea lights up in the encouraging and almost surreal presence of the spring sun. Even the outskirts of the country's second largest city lies there, right at my feet, as I walk with modest and grateful steps across the wooden floor and see the small, long-bearded wine wizard standing by one of the many windows and looking out over the gathering with a quiet, stoic calm.
“And contrary to his stringent, dry and powerful wines, he is kindness itself. Humble, smiling and interested.”
What applies to all these previous encounters – and non-encounters – with the wine phenomenon, however, is a certain way of mystery. Who stores his white wines underwater, why do people talk about him all the time, great wine from a grape called Mencia … and why doesn't he open when you ring his doorbell …!
Tasting Flight. Raúl Pérez. Photo: Thomas Steinthal
Within a few moments I am welcomed by Henrik Smidt Hansen from Kjær & Sommerfeldt, who has arranged this, and 149 other, unique tastings on the occasion of their 150th anniversary. Around us, water and delicious snacks are placed on the tables by the restaurant staff while the many participants slowly arrive.
Raúl Pérez Bodegas y Viñedos
In my capacity as a wine writer, I have been allowed to do a solo interview with Raúl after the tasting, so out of politeness – and of course also curiosity – I go up to him and introduce myself. And contrary to his stringent, dry and powerful wines, he is kindness itself. Humble, smiling and interested. In no way the prototype of a great and famous wine producer, if such a thing exists.
As the tasting begins, I let the man fade into the background of the selection of wines chosen for the tasting:
Ultreia Godello 2023
La Vizcaina – La del Vivo 2022
Ultreia La Claudina 2022
Ultreia Saint Jacques 2022
La Vizcaina – La Vitoriana 2022
La Vizcaina – El Rapolao 2022
Ultreia Valtuille 2022
El Pecado 2022
Viariz 2021
Sketch 2023
Three whites primarily on Godello and five reds primarily on Mencia with the final, famous and fabulous Galician underwater aged Albariño.
In between the wines, Raúl tells us a little about what we have in the glass and how they were made, and the first thing I think about concerning all the wines, is that they are absolutely strict, well-composed and elegant despite his very natural and old-fashioned way of making wine. He uses only natural yeasts, rarely filters, never follows the same recipe, but trusts his intuition, and always uses large, old barrels rather than stainless steel tanks. In other words, an almost German approach to wine production, which is atypical in this modern and stylish world. And yet he manages to bring out this simultaneously powerful and refined expression in his wines. Impressive.
Raúl Pérez. Photo: Thomas Steinthal
As the two hours allotted for the session have passed, I sit down at a private table with the popular Spaniard, where my first immediate impression of him is confirmed. He is simply a sweet and friendly guy who has grape juice and drive in his blood. Since 1752, the Pérez family has worked with wine, and from a very early age Raúl began helping out at the family vineyard in Valtuille de Abajo, from where he made his first vintage in 1973 at the age of 20, before leaving the farm in 2005 and creating his own project, Bodegas y Viñedos Raúl Pérez. And since then, things have moved quickly for him, not only as a winemaker, but also as a consultant for various producers around the world, which has only reinforced the image of him as a traveling wizard that is now inextricably linked to him.
Raúl Pérez and Kenny Jess Brandt. Photo: Thomas Steinthal
But when I ask about all his projects, he does not hide the fact that he is getting tired of the busy and hectic life, and that he would rather just be at home on the farm in Bierzo, wandering around among the plants on his 40 hectares of vineyards, several of which are over 100 years old, and focusing on his own wines. Which is more than understandable, since he currently has his hands in over 200 different wines every year!
After our little chat, Henrik invites me over to taste a few extra, carefully selected bottles from their selection of Raúl's wines together with René Langdahl and Raúl himself. Four in total, all top wines that are either not bottled yet or simply not available due to the small quantities. La Penitencia 2022 from Ribera Sacra, La Muria 2021 and 2023 and Viariz 2023. A classy end to a very well-organized tasting of Kjær & Sommerfeldt in beautiful surroundings and with a wine personality who in some mysterious way – with a combination of humility and a natural and intuitive approach to wine production – manages to create absolutely strict, dry, powerful and yet elegant and vibrant wines.
Respect to our little Spanish wine wizard, and thank you for letting me taste along.
